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Home » England » Three Days in London- An Alternative Itinerary to the Rick Steves Guide

Three Days in London- An Alternative Itinerary to the Rick Steves Guide

May 1, 2019 Carol Guttery 29 Comments

Dare to disobey the Rick Steves guide with this itinerary for three days in London. This guide will show you some of the typical historical sites but also get you out into the streets to experience a modern side of the city.

Millenium Bridge London
View of St Paul’s from the Tate Modern

Why Should You Disobey Rick Steves in London?

I like the Rick Steves’ travel guides. They offer very practical, budget friendly advice for how to navigate a city and prioritize its various sites. I often use them when in Europe.

But I’m also a well-traveled woman who has learned the hard way that confining yourself to seeing only the “must see” tourist sites is a sure-fire way to miss out on getting to know a place. I have visited and liked most of London’s top tourist sites, but they are heavily focused on British history and won’t give you much insight into modern London.

So the following itinerary for three days in London acknowledges the importance of these historical sites, but also suggest other nearby offerings that will get you wandering the streets of today’s London.

London Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey

Rick Steves Top Sites in London

Any Rick Steves guidebook stack-ranks the tourist sites according to a prioritized system: three triangles represent a must do, two are kinda-do and so on. The Rick Steves London at a Glance guide offers a list of 20 sites that warrant 2-3 triangles. It includes:

▲▲▲ Westminster Abbey, Churchill War Rooms, National Gallery, British Museum, British Library, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Tower of London and the Victoria & Albert Museum

▲▲ Houses of Parliament, Trafalger Square, National Portrait Gallery, Covent Garden, Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, London Eye, Imperial War Museum, Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe, Tate Britain, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum

I hate to tell you, but there is no way that you can do all of that with a three day London itinerary.

Planning for Three Days in London

London is a huuuuuge city with far more to do than even the Rick Steves London list. You aren’t going to be able to see all of it with in three days. I’ve been six times and every time I go, I uncover something new.

So how, do you figure out what to do in London in three days? You are going to have to prioritize what is important to you and do your best not to exhaust yourself. The following itinerary suggests doing 2-3 of the above Rick Steves’ pics per day, based upon your personal interests. But the itinerary then goes off script to suggest a nearby neighborhood that is worth exploring.

Doing London this way will get you out of the museums and into the streets to explore London’s on-the-ground culture.

London three day itinerary: Changing of the Guard
Buckingham Palace Guard

Day 1: Westminster History and Chelsea Neighborhood Stroll

London was founded in 43 AD, so the city is absolutely stuffed with historical sites and more than half of Rick Steves’ London pics fall into this category. In addition, many of them are in (or near) the Westminster area of London. From Rick’s list the area features: Westminster Abbey, The Tate, National Gallery, Trafalger Square, Parliament Building, Buckingham Palace and the Churchill War Rooms.

Day 1: Morning in Westminster

For the morning of day one, think about your personal interests and then pick two of the historical sites listed below. The following will help you prioritize and give you suggested visitation times to allocate for each. This list has a lot of indoor activities so is particularly good to do in the winter.

If you have kids:

Buckingham Palace changing of the guard. This pure royal theater is free but crowded so get there early to get a good spot. The pageantry starts at 11am Time allotted: 1.5 hours.

If you like religious sites:

Westminster Abbey. Westminster has been the royal coronation church for 950 years and its architecture and treasures represent layers and layers of British history. Tickets cost £21.00. Abbey tours are 9:30am to 3:30pm Monday through Friday and Saturday 9am-1pm. Time allotted 2-3 hours.

If you like historical art:

The National Gallery. The Gallery features western European art from the 13th-19th centuries. It’s not strictly in Westminster but rather a bit north, on Trafalger Square. My favorite part of the National Gallery is the photography exhibit in the Portrait Gallery. The images go past your typical dead white guy paintings to show an interesting multi-ethnic side of England. Entrance is free and you can use the SmARTify app for a virtual tour while you are there. They are open 10a-6pm everyday and until 9pm on Fridays. Time allotted 1.5-2 hours.

The Tate Britain. The Tate carries historical British art (such as J. M. W. Turner) and contemporary British pieces. Entrance is free. Time allotted 1.5 hours.

If you are a government nerd:

Churchill War Rooms. This is my favorite of all of these historical sites. The WWII bunker was the nerve center of Britain’s war effort and the exhibits are designed in such as way that you can visualize Churchill down in the bunker, hunched over maps and trying to strategize a way out of the war. Cost: £22.00 for adults best booked in advance. They are open every day 9:30am-7pm. Time allotted: 1.5-2 hours.

Tour of Parliament. They offer guided tours for £26.50 on Saturdays and when Parliament isn’t in session. Time allotted 1.5 hours.

Read More: If you are really interested in London’s history, then also check out my tour of the East End and its immigrant history.

London Chelsea Neighborhood stroll car
Chelsea neighborhood at street level

Day 1 Afternoon in Chelsea

Chelsea is just one quick tube stop west of Westminster from Victoria station to Sloan Square. There is a long shopping and dining street along King’s road. You can kill the afternoon strolling the bookshops, boutiques, photography galleries, tea shops and mini gardens that line the main drag.

If you are into modern art: Stop into the Saatchi Gallery. They feature contemporary art with innovative pieces made of found objects and paintings with modern and edgy themes. The gallery is free. The gallery is open everyday from 10a-6pm. Time allotted: 45 minutes.

If you are into gardens: Visit the Chelsea Physic Garden. The garden was founded three hundred years ago to grow medicinal plants and as a way to train apprentice apothecaries. The garden is located four blocks south of the shopping drag on the Thames. The garden is open Monday-Friday 11am-6pm. Adult tickets are £11.00. Time allotted: 1 hour.

Best Views in London: of the Tower from the Shard
View of the Tower Bridge from the Shard

Day Two: The City, The Tower & The South Bank

For day two, of your three day London itinerary, focus on the City and South Bank.

Day Two: Morning

If you are a history buff: The Tower of London. The Tower shows you London’s medieval side with suits of armour and the crown jewels. The Tower is open Sunday-Monday 10a-5:30p, Tuesday-Saturday 9a-5:30p. Tickets are £27.50 (cheaper if booked in advance). Time allotted: 1.5-2 hours.

If you like religious sites: St. Paul’s Cathedral. The Cathedral offers a visual history of England’s reformation period. The £17.00 ticket includes a guided tour of the galleries and multimedia guides. Tours run Monday-Saturday 9:30-4p. Time allotted: 2 hours.

If you are into Shakespeare: The Globe Theater. The theater is a replica of the original theater that previewed Shakespeare’s works. You can attend performances or take a tour (£17.00 for adult tickets.) They are open daily 9:30a-5p. Time allotted: 45 minutes.

If you love modern art: Tate Modern. The Tate Modern features modern British art in a refurbished boiler building. This is my favorite museum in London and they always have something that makes me feel uncomfortable, which for me is the mark of a great museum. Their permanent collection is free but there is a charge for special exhibitions. They are open 10a-6pm everyday and until 10p on Friday and Saturday.  Time allotted: 2 hours.

London Tate Modern Interior
The Tate Modern’s re-purposed industrial space

Day Two: Afternoon in Southwark

Work up your hunger doing two or three of the above options and then head over to Borough market to satiate it. The market has over 150 food stalls with everything that you can imagine. My personal favorite is Neal’s Dairy Yard because they age and sell the finest cheese in England. But there are fruit/veg stalls, curry stands, bakeries, pate, olives, sandwiches, coffee, wine beer, smoothies and on and on. If you are a huge foodie, check out this post on more food halls. The market is open Monday-Saturday but has more stalls Wednesday-Saturday. Time allocated: 1-1/2 hours.

After you’re done eating everything, waddle over to The Shard. The Shard is a glass clad building that shoots 53 stories out of the ground and towers over London. Their three-story viewing rooms offer 360’ views of the city, great at any time of day but particularly awesome at sunset. Time allocated: 1-2 hours.

Read More: See more of London with this guide to all of the killer viewing spots.

What to do in London: The Shard
The Shard as it shoots up into the sky

Day Three: British Museum, British Library & Shoreditch

For your third day in London, combine some ancient history with something modern and edgy.

London British Museum
Wise words from Tennyson at the entrance to the British Museum

Day Three: Morning in Clerkenwell

For ancient history buffs: The British Museum. Colonial Britain looted the finest ancient artifacts from throughout the Empire and it’s all on display at the British Museum. Entrance is free and they also offer a variety of free and paid special tours. The museum is open everyday 10am-5:30pm. Time allotment: 2-3 hours.

For book nerds: The British Library. This is a proper, working library but they also exhibit a remarkable collection of works ranging from the Gutenberg Bible, works by Shakespeare, the Magna Carta and musical notes from the Beatles. When you are finished there, there are also some really cool London bookshops in nearby Russell Square. The exhibits are free and open from Monday-Thursday 9:30a-8p, Friday 9:30-6p, Saturday 9:30-5p, Sunday 11a-5p. Time allotted: 1-1/2 hours.

Read More: If you are also a Harry Potter nerd, check out this whole other tour of Potter sites in the UK that includes tips on touring the nearby Warner Brother studios, or check out this article on the most beautiful libraries in the world.

The British Library Literary tour
The interior stacks of the British Library

(This article contains affiliate links. This means that if you choose to purchase, I’ll make a small commission.)

Day Three: Afternoon & Evening in Shoreditch

Look, you could (should!) spend several days, just in Shoreditch. It’s a living, thriving neighborhood full of cool street art, street food, markets and weird museums. So, I urge you check out this full list of things to do there.

But, as your time is limited, I’ll give you a few suggestions here:

If you are a foodie: Go on a Sunday for the street market on Brick lane. The market has used goods, crafts and great street food- say YES to falafel! If you are visiting Mon-Sat, then go to BOXpark. It’s a street foodie haven made of old shipping containers. Time allocated: 2-3 hours.

If you like street art: Shoreditch has a world class street art scene. Check out my post on how to find it or think about taking either a quick 2 hour tour or a more immersive 4 hour private photography tour. Time allocated 2-4 hours (depending upon the tour).

If you are a history buff: Denis Severs House. It’s where 1750’s period living meets performance art. The house has period set pieces but designed as if the people are still living there. It’s weird and totally worth it. It costs £15 and you must book ahead. Time allocated: 1 hour.

If you love beer: Spend your evening crawling all of the great pubs around Brick Lane and Shoreditch High Street.

Loads of street art in Shoreditch

Tips for Getting Around London

Getting Into London from Heathrow

  • Cheapest Way: You can take the Picadilly line all the way into central London. It takes 1-1-1/2 hours. Using the Oyster card, it costs £5.10 during peak and £3.10 off peak. This is a great choice for the budget traveler.
  • Blazing Fast & Pricey: The Heathrow Express is a non-stop train that goes from Heathrow to Paddington station in a short 15 minutes. The tickets cost £25.00 for one way or £37.00 for a prepaid round trip. This is a good choice for a single person or couple who are anxious to get their trip started (as I was on my last visit) however you will need to transfer to the tube to get to your hotel.
  • Point to Point for Groups: Taking a black cab from the airport can be as fast as 35 minutes and as slow as 1-1/2 hours during rush hour. The benefits are that if you have more than two people, it’s cheaper than the Heathrow Express and you can be taken directly to your hotel. The cab will cost $45-55.

Should you buy the London Pass?

If you wake up early and speed walk through at least five of the top historical sites over three days, then the £110 3-day pass may be worth it for you. It includes free entry to some of those sites + the Beefeater gin distillery tour. Because, you are going to need some gin if you exhaust yourself with that kind of itinerary. On the bright side, the pass does include the hop-on-hop-off bus.

But here’s the deal…it’s only a deal if you do that sort of speed itinerary and ignore the neighborhoods I’m suggesting that you explore. So check out the pass and make sure it covers what you want to see.

Otherwise, if you plan your itinerary in advance using the suggestions above AND you purchase entry tickets in advance for the more popular tourist sites AND you aren’t afraid of public transportation, you can get a better deal.

Getting Around on Public Transportation

You can pick up an Oyster Card at any ticket machine for the Tube. Using it, you will pay only £2.90 per tube ride which, even with transfers, is cheaper and more point-to-point than a HoHo bus. The buses in London also accept the Oyster card and their double decker design will give you great views of the city as you drive by. Just use Google maps to help you figure out the best bus route.

Don’t have data? Get some. Many US carriers have dreadful international plans, but if you own your phone outright, you can have it unlocked. Then, when you arrive in London, just purchase a local SIM card at the airport, which will allow you to map, Google and Yelp your way all over the city. SIM cards at the airport will cost roughly £25 and are the best money you will spend during your three days in London. Another option is to rely on public Wi-Fi hotspots, however you should exercise caution because they open you up to hacking, especially if you don’t have a VPN.

London Dennis Severs Bedroom
Interior scene of the Dennis Severs house

Where to Stay in London

The Westminster Area is very central for accessing all of London and the neighborhood has a lot of hotel space at a variety of price points. They have a number of budget hotels clustered near Victoria Station and standard tourist hotels throughout the neighborhood. Check reviews on Trip Advisor or book at Booking.com.

Chelsea has a cluster of well-appointed boutique hotels all within a block of the Sloan Square tube stop. Check reviews for Chelsea on Trip Advisor or book on Booking.com.

The South Bank has a mix of hip, hotels with cool interior designs and a selection of your standard business hotels (like the Marriott). Check reviews in the South Bank at Trip Advisor or book on Booking.com.

Russell Square is very near both the British Library and the British Museum. The neighborhood has a mix of cheap hostels and reasonably priced independent hotels with a few fancy boutique hotels thrown in for good measure. Check reviews for Russell Square at Trip Advisor or book at Booking.com.

Shoreditch has a few very cool high-end hotels that have been re-purposed from historical buildings (like The Brewery) and it also has budget chain hotels (like PointA) that are hipper and more comfortable than you might imagine. Check reviews for Shoreditch at Trip Advisor or book at Booking.com.

London South Bank Millenniu Bridge St Pauls
Ground level view of St Paul’s and the Millennium bridge

More Resources for London

• Purchase and review the Rick Steves London guide book.
• Check out some other bloggers who know London like this London Bridge tour or these free attractions from the Trusted Traveler and these another quirky tours.

Well, there’s your London three day itinerary. By grouping these sites by neighborhood and adding in some neighborhood strolls, you will be able to maximize your time in London and truly get to know the city. Have fun and report back to me here or on social media when you return, I’d love to hear about your trip.

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About Carol Guttery

Carol Guttery is the founder of Wayfaring Views, and is a travel writer, photographer, and philanthropy consultant. She's been tackling the world for forty years and has been to 43+ countries and territories.

Comments

  1. Mary Smith says

    October 28, 2019 at 1:15 am

    A great and useful article. But I have the worst story of being hacked on public wi-fi in London using expressVPN. Than, I use PureVPN ever since because they are reliable since long time.

    Reply
  2. Jim says

    August 7, 2019 at 10:58 am

    For a unique “treat” (especially if you are a Rumpole or “Witness for the Prosecution” fan), catch a trial at Old Bailey. Our daughter put us onto this and glad she did – never would have thought of it otherwise.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      August 7, 2019 at 12:02 pm

      Thanks for the tip.

      Reply
  3. Sheri says

    July 6, 2019 at 9:04 am

    Twinings tea store is a good experience and they have some special events. There are lots of good restaurants that have afternoon tea as well

    Reply
  4. Kari says

    July 6, 2019 at 8:53 am

    Got any picks for best spots for true English tea experience?

    Reply
  5. Brian says

    June 28, 2019 at 4:29 am

    You should mention the importance of using a VPN when on public wifi in BOLD. I have the worst story of being hacked while on public wifi in London. I use surfshark ever since, but there are plenty of other vpn to choose from.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      July 6, 2019 at 2:24 pm

      Ugh- I’m sorry to hear that.

      Reply
  6. Laura says

    May 4, 2019 at 12:06 am

    I read this blog 5 months ago when I first started planning our trip and just read it again. NOW I KNOW why I have been working so hard to fit in neighborhood walks. 😉 I got it from you! Two questions: What do you think about the V & A or British Museum for Friday Late then staying around either neighborhood for a pub or bar? (I have 3 kids in their 20s.) And do you have any well-priced group walking tour recommendations besides London Walks, Sandeman or Lookup London? I’m looking for an afternoon Westminster Walk and can’t find one. Thank you! This is so helpful!

    Reply
  7. Sheri says

    February 3, 2019 at 11:26 am

    I am planning a London 3day trip and like these ideas. I need to get back to Dublin to fly back to the US and, if I have one more day, wonder if its enough time to go outside of London and see the East Grinstead area, Bath or other such outskirts, or if its too much to fit in.
    I will be coming from the Edinburgh area. I also wondered if there are any type of cruises that go from Edinburgh around and include a stop in London and end up i Dublin, a short 3 day type thing.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      February 11, 2019 at 4:35 am

      You can easily do Bath as a day trip. I believe the train is only ~1.5 hours from London. So, if you got an an early start,you could have a whole day there. Check Virgin Trains for the schedule. It’s much cheaper to pre book trains when possible. I’m not aware of a 3-day cruise around the British Isles, but there probably are some. But then, you would have less time on the ground.

      Reply
  8. Hui says

    August 2, 2018 at 6:22 am

    A great article! Very practical and one of a few that not trying to selling “London Pass”. Thanks.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      August 2, 2018 at 3:51 pm

      Thanks- I’m trying to help people see a broader London than just the Royal sites. In the interest of full disclosure, I do link to the London Pass and if someone chooses to purchase, I’ll make a small commission. But, I find that with a lot of the city pass cards, you really have to hustle around to get your value out of them.

      Reply
      • robert says

        January 27, 2020 at 4:53 am

        wife and i will be in london 4 days this september.we are considering a 3 or 4 day london pass,any thoughts?

        Reply
        • Carol Guttery says

          January 27, 2020 at 9:59 am

          The pass is only a good deal if you are going to hit up 4-5 of the major historical sites per day. It includes the Hop on Hop Off bus, but I’m not a fan of them. You can get around much faster using the tube or normal city buses. And the city buses are double-decker, so you can sit on the upper level for views.

          Reply
  9. Carina Fortunato says

    May 30, 2018 at 3:30 pm

    fantastic issues altogether, you just received a new reader. What may you suggest about your post that you simply made a few days in the past? Any sure?

    Reply
  10. Valerie says

    September 13, 2017 at 6:33 am

    In lieu of the London Eye (insert hard eye roll, here), I suggest the Skygarden @ 20 Fenchurch (the building that they call ‘the Eraser’) where you get full 360 degree view of London from a garden in the sky – https://skygarden.london/plan-your-visit. Admission is FREE but you must get timed entry tickets prior (although there might be a few walk-up tickets available on slow day). There is a security check but the line moves quickly.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      September 14, 2017 at 5:57 pm

      Thanks so much for this suggestion. I’m going to London soon and will check this out.

      Reply
      • Valerie says

        September 14, 2017 at 6:13 pm

        Have you spent much time walking around the City of London? It seems boring but there are lots of little ‘secret’ historical things lurking around every corner. For instance, the signs of old Lombard Street – http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/signs-of-old-lombard-street.

        Leadenhall Market is a gorgeous Victorian market tucked away in the shadow of the Lloyd’s of London building (Harry Potter fans might recognize it).

        This is another great source – http://historylondon.org/category/city-of-london/.

        I L-O-V-E London, have fun!

        Reply
  11. Mary Kate says

    September 20, 2016 at 2:44 pm

    Love Borough Market! I try to get there every time I’m in London. I also love old churches, especially since they often host concerts–last time I was there, St. Martin-in-the-Fields had some beautiful music! And instead of the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, the Changing of the Horse Guards is much more entrancing! Gorgeous horses, and much more visible–http://changing-guard.com/queens-life-guard.html

    Reply
  12. Mags says

    September 19, 2016 at 2:00 pm

    I too love Rick Steves and guidebooks are a great jumping off point, but sometimes you need to strike out on your own!

    Reply
  13. Rachel Pearson says

    September 19, 2016 at 6:07 am

    Great post on alternative ways to see London. There are SO many things to do there, it would be impossible to see everything in a lifetime. I love the Tate Modern too, but have never been on a walking tour of the East End – that sounds so interesting! Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      September 19, 2016 at 3:59 pm

      I liked the East End so much that I would like to stay there next time I visit

      Reply
  14. Sara Essop says

    September 18, 2016 at 10:20 am

    Refreshing perspective. I followed Rick Steve’s guidelines in Italy but totally forgot about him in London. Just as well as I think I would have differed with him on a few things too, esp the stuffy aristocrat portraits.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      September 18, 2016 at 10:50 am

      Well- I do eyeball their guides as I do find them useful, especially for practical tips like how to do laundry. But I just don’t feel obligated to see ‘top sites’ if they aren’t my thing.

      Reply
  15. Cliodhna Ryan says

    September 18, 2016 at 5:45 am

    Great post. I go to London almost every year have only done about half of the “must see” attractions. I always get way too distracted by the million other cool things there are to do! I’m saving this for my next trip. There’s always something new to do in London!

    Reply
  16. Elaine J Masters says

    September 17, 2016 at 1:33 pm

    Nice perspective. Learn the rules, as it were, and then break them! I need to visit the Tate, loved Shoreditch and walking Millennium Bridge but then I had about 24 hours on the last trip.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      September 18, 2016 at 10:49 am

      I really love the Tate Modern. They rotate collections frequently so it’s a new museum every time you visit

      Reply
  17. Maaike says

    September 17, 2016 at 1:19 pm

    If I have to list all the best things to visit in London, I could write a book 🙂 So I agree, disobeying guide books is sometimes a good thing! Just wandering in a city can bring you to the greatest places and can bring you the best experiences.

    Reply
    • Carol Guttery says

      September 18, 2016 at 10:48 am

      I love wandering around cities. It’s called flaneuring and I wrote a whole post about it- https://wayfaringviews.com/embrace-urban-strolling-be-flaneur/

      Reply

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